My economise and I bought our prototypal concern in Feb. 2009. We’ve tackled most of the big jobs, and now we don’t have such money to keep spending on the house. However, I HATE our ’80s Stygian vegetation banister. I desired to tear it out & change it, but that seemed too participating and expensive. So I decided to smoothen it down and paint it white.
Ok, first, I used a rattling coarse poise wool pad to vanish all the polyurethane. Then I went over it with a dustlike poise wool & finally a medium grid sanding block. All of the shiny opencast is gone. I have cleaned up all the dust. I have a can of white, oil-based primer from when I painted the face door. Can I use this on the banister? And can I use white, hi-gloss latex plaint over that so the banister matches all the trim?
If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions, I’d appreciate hearing them! Thanks!
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By dragonfly on Mar 7, 2010 | Reply
You could have lightly sanded it and used Benjamin Moores Fresh Start.
that would have been alot faster.
That said,if it is bare wood what about staining it a lighter colour?
If not then use BM Fresh Start and then you can use either latex paint or oil on top.
I’m not sure I woul dgo with High gloss though.
What type of house do you have.
I would go with a Semi Gloss.,Do you want white from th ecan or a warmer off white?
By ^ glen ^ portmanteau ^ on Mar 7, 2010 | Reply
Yes, oil primer will allow a latex paint to properly adhere. I most cases I prefer the oil primer. I trust it to stick to the existing finish better. Sounds like your prep is done well. Super fine sanding is not really necessary since you are painting.
You should run your hands on the primed parts to feel any roughness. Lightly sand to remove such roughness. Use the upgrade version of the high gloss. This will possibly help in flowing and sagging proplems.
This is what I would do. You might consider a Satin or, at most, a Simi Gloss, for the pickets. Do the Hand Rails in the High Gloss. You may have to much glair and a busy look, not to mention the High Gloss reflects the light and will exagerate any blemishes.
A step further. If the Handrails cleaned up nice and are desirable wood grains, Clear Coat the Hand Rails, leaving them natural. I like that.
By Rick M on Mar 7, 2010 | Reply
It sounds like you have done your prep work correctly. You need to remember that an oil based primer will have more shine to it then a latex, however some of the oil based primers are much better then the latex. Of course this is not always the case.
So, the key would be to make sure you sand or steel wool the primer down to get the shine out and then you should be good to go with your shiny latex paint finish coats.
It is much easier to go over latex with oil then oil with latex, but if you make sure you follow the suggestions above you will end up with a really nice finish.
For more help and information on how to apply primers, paints and other finishes, click on the following link
http://www.showroom411.com/dir/how-to/painting-staining-and-finishing-how-to.html
I hope this helps.
By Taf on Mar 7, 2010 | Reply
Anything that has been stained or varnished ought to remain that way. Even though you have rubbed down or stripped the surface of the polyurethane, if it was applied properly in the first place it will have soaked deeper into the wood stopping other primers from doing the same. Therefore, if it has been done properly wood paints will always be prone to chipping off.
If you are going to do it anyway, then oil-based undercoat followed by gloss or satin is fine. Oil-based primer is for soaking into wood and your not going to achieve that in this case. There are water-based primers that are used for dense situations like MDF, ceramic, glass, but I would not bother in this situation. You can use water-based paints, but oil-based will be better. If you can get hold of Sikkens Onol and Satura.so much the better.
I have never painted anything that was previously stained or varnished in 30 yrs, but people do, however, it is a compromise to sound painting practice.